Taking place at Bonhams on 21 September, the London Jewels sale boasts a spectacular single-owner collection of 20th century Art Deco jewels.
Valued not only for the preciousness of the gemstones but also for their wearability and individual beauty, the collector has accumulated a stunning array of Art Deco pieces, showing the collector’s eye for superior design, skilled craftsmanship and appreciation of jewellery as an art form.
Featuring pieces by renowned names such as Fouquet, Mauboussin and Cartier, highlights of the London Jewels sale include:
A rare pair of natural pearl and diamond chandelier earrings by Mauboussin, c.1930. The elegant, deceptively simple geometric lines of these earrings are a foil for technical artistry as they combine numerous different cuts of diamond and a pair of exquisite natural pearls. Offered with an estimate of £70,000 – 100,000.
A gem-set bead and diamond necklace by Cartier, c.1925. The exceptional necklace is set with rows of graduating turquoise beads alternating with tiny ruby spacers, emulating the knots in red silk, and is connected each side with old brilliant and single-cut diamond geometric plaques depicting stylised lily-of-the-valley. Signed Cartier with a provenance of formerly being part of Alice Lurcy’s magnificent jewellery collection, the wife of French investment banker George Lurcy. The Lurcy’s loved to surround themselves in opulence of fine art and exquisite jewels. Offered with an estimate of £50,000 – 80,000.
A stylish multi gem-set and diamond double-clip brooch by Henri Picq (1861-1941), c.1930, made by the same workshop favoured by Cartier when creating their iconic ‘Tutti Frutti’ designs. Each openwork clip is composed of twisting vines issuing from a central ogee motif. Set throughout with brilliant, old brilliant, single and baguette cut diamonds with leaf shaped carved rubies and sapphires and fluted emerald beads studded with diamonds with black enamel detail, and displaying the maker’s mark of Henri Picq. Offered with an estimate of £50,000 – 70,000.
A large circular fancy-cut citrine and diamond pendant by Georges Fouquet (1862-1957), c.1920. The pendant is a fabulous example of the evolution of Fouquet’s exquisite work, showcasing how he moved away from Art Nouveau towards the modern styles of the early 20th century that featured bolder and more streamlined aesthetics. Set within a minimal and elegant setting, the pendant offers a large citrine of unusual cut, mounted within three dart-shaped claws decorated with rose-cut diamonds, suspended from a rose-cut diamond circular pendant, mounted in platinum. Signed G. Fouquet. Estimate of £30,000 – 50,000.
Other highlights of the sale include a 1930s Van Cleef & Arpels diamond and gem-set flowerspray brooch resembling the one worn by Margaret, Duchess of Argyll (1912-1933) in her portrait of 1931 by Gerald Leslie Brockhurst. The portrait depicts the gold floral embroidery of the Duchess of Argyll’s black gown, alongside a similar diamond and gem-set brooch pinned upside down at the centre of her dress. It is believed that the brooch was gifted or sold to the Eisenhowers during the early 1970s, the portrait is in the collection of Tate London.
The yellow gold engraved brooch is highly textured floral and foliate spray tied with a fluttering ribbon, the diamond flowers within larger yellow gold crafted petals, the wider design is scattered with rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and diamonds. Offered with an estimate of £20,000 – 25,000.
Emily Barber, Bonhams Head of Jewellery, UK, said: “Jewellery is increasingly – and rightly – being reassessed as an art form, not just the sum of its precious components. In addition, jewels are highly personal and are a glimpse into the life and times of the people who owned and wore them. It is this combination that makes collecting period jewels so irresistible.”
Bonhams London Jewels sale takes place on 21 September, with viewings on 17, 18 and 20 September. Bidding is now open online. For further information: bonhams.com
Smith Greenfield is an independent insurance broker specialising in insurance for collectors of valuable objects including: art insurance, antiques insurance, memorabilia insurance, vintage car insurance, fine wine insurance and more. To discuss specialist insurance for your collection, please contact our Premier Client Adviser, Imran Moideen, via email imran.moideen@smithgreenfield.co.uk or telephone 020 8603 3730.
Image courtesy of Bonhams: Van Cleef & Arpels: Diamond and gem-set flowerspray brooch, c.1930s