The first UK exhibition dedicated to the work of legendary fashion designer Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel has just opened at London’s V&A.
Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto charts the evolution of the pioneering designer’s iconic design style and the establishment of the House of CHANEL, from the opening of her first boutique in 1910 to the showing of her final collection in 1971. The ‘dazzling’ blockbuster show opened on Saturday to coincide with London Fashion Week.
Featuring almost 200 looks seen together for the first time, along with accessories, perfumes and jewellery, the exhibition explores Chanel’s approach to fashion design, which paved the way for a new elegance and continues to influence the way women dress today.
Initially organised by the Palais Galliera, Fashion Museum of the City of Paris and premiered in Paris in 2020, the exhibition has been reimagined by the V&A with over 100 new objects and 60 new looks, including rarely seen pieces from the V&A’s own collection and the Patrimoine de CHANEL, the heritage collections of the fashion House in Paris. Highlights include: one of the earliest surviving Chanel garments from 1916; original costumes designed by Chanel for the Ballets Russes production of Le Train Bleu in 1924; outfits created for Hollywood stars Lauren Bacall and Marlene Dietrich; an early example of Chanel’s ground-breaking evening trousers and ensembles from Chanel’s final collection of 1971.
At the V&A, the exhibition is presented across ten sections to demonstrate the extraordinary skill and innovation of the House of CHANEL. Themes include: Towards a New Elegance, which introduces Gabrielle Chanel’s career as a milliner when she opened her first boutiques in France; The Invisible Accessory, showcasing her creation of iconic perfume N°5, which became the world’s best-selling fragrance and The Suit, which spotlights the defining garment of Gabrielle Chanel’s post-war contribution to fashion, with over fifty ensembles in a range of colours on display across two levels.
Tristram Hunt, Director of the V&A, said: “As one of the most successful fashion houses in existence, CHANEL owes much to the templates first laid down by its founder Gabrielle Chanel, over a century ago. We are delighted to be partnering with CHANEL and the Palais Galliera on this exhibition, which provides us with the opportunity to explore the origins and elements of this enduring style and to display little-known historic Chanel garments from the V&A collection.”
Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto is now open at the V&A (until 25 February 2024). For further information and to book tickets: vam.ac.uk
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Image: Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto at the V&A © Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Full credit: Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, 16 September 2023 – 25 February 2024. Presented in partnership with Palais Galliera, Fashion Museum of the City of Paris, Paris Musées. With the support of CHANEL