Next month, the UK’s first major exhibition in almost 30 years dedicated to Cartier jewels and watches opens at London’s V&A.
Featuring more than 350 objects and charting the evolution of the house’s legacy of art, design and craftsmanship from the early 20th century, Cartier will explore how the Maison became an unparalleled force in the jewellery and watch world.
Founded in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier (1819-1904), it was at the turn of the 20th century that Louis-François’ three grandsons set out to create the first globally recognised jewellery house, establishing branches in Paris, London and New York.
With an enviable client list of royalty and aristocracy, Cartier became known as ‘the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers’ and later broadened its appeal thanks to the devotion of leading creatives from the worlds of cinema, music and fashion.
The exhibition will include precious jewels and showstopping objects, historic gemstones, iconic watches and clocks from the V&A and Cartier Collection, as well as previously unseen drawings from the V&A and Cartier archives, together with works lent by His Majesty The King from the Royal Collection, major UK and international museums, and private collections.
Highlights will include:
- The Williamson Diamond brooch commissioned by Queen Elizabeth II in 1953 featuring the rare 23.6 carat pink Williamson diamond
- The Scroll Tiara commissioned in 1902 and worn to the coronation of Elizabeth II, and by Rihanna on the cover of W magazine in 2016
- A rose clip brooch (1938) worn by Princess Margaret at her sister’s coronation
- Grace Kelly’s engagement ring (1956), from the Monaco Princely Palace Collection, that she wore in her final film High Society (1956)
Plus an amethyst and sapphire brooch made by Cartier London (c.1933) for Jacques Cartier’s wife Nelly; Mexican film star María Félix’s exceptional snake necklace (1968); the majestic Manchester Tiara from the V&A collection, made in 1903 for the Dowager Duchess of Manchester; a collection of panther jewels, one of the House’s most enduring and instantly recognisable symbols, including a bracelet of pavé diamonds flecked with onyx (1978); and a selection of Cartier timepieces that embody its unique and pioneering approach to watchmaking, including the Crash wristwatch, designed by Cartier London (1967).
Exhibition curators Helen Molesworth and Rachel Garrahan, said: “Cartier is one of the most famous jewellery houses in the world. This exhibition will explore how Louis, Pierre and Jacques Cartier, together with their father Alfred, adopted a strategy of original design, exceptional craftmanship and international expansion that transformed the Parisian family jeweller into a household name. With its world-class jewellery collection, the V&A is the perfect stage to celebrate the pioneering achievements of Cartier and its transformative ability to remain at the centre of culture and creativity for more than a century. We are excited to be able to share with visitors some of Cartier’s most famous creations as well as revealing previously unseen objects and archive material that further enriches our understanding of a jewellery house that continues to influence the way we adorn ourselves today.”
Cartier opens at the V&A on 12 April. For further information: vam.ac.uk
Image: Scroll tiara, Cartier Paris, commissioned for the Countess of Essex in 1902. Diamonds, silver and gold. Nils Herrmann, Collection Cartier © Cartier
Smith Greenfield is an independent insurance broker specialising in insurance for exclusive lifestyles and collectors of valuable objects including: art insurance, antiques insurance, jewellery insurance, watch insurance, vintage car insurance, fine wine insurance and more. To discuss specialist insurance for your lifestyle, please contact our Premier Client Adviser, Imran Moideen: imran.moideen@smithgreenfield.co.uk